Where to stay in Riga
Riga's centre is compact and walkable: from the Old Town to the Art Nouveau district is a 15-minute walk across the parks that follow the line of the old city moat. Accommodation is affordable by Western European standards, and there is a wide choice from boutique hotels in medieval buildings to modern apartments.
Old Riga (Vecrīga)
The medieval Old Town is where most visitors stay, among cobbled streets, guild halls, the House of the Blackheads and the spires of St Peter's Church and Riga Cathedral. Everything is within a few minutes' walk, and there are many restaurants and bars. The downside is that it is busy with tour groups and stag parties at weekends, some bars are noisy, and cars are restricted, so arriving by taxi with luggage may require a short walk over cobblestones.
Centrs and the Art Nouveau District
North-east of the Old Town beyond the Bastejkalns park and the Freedom Monument lies the nineteenth-century centre, a grid of wide boulevards with grand buildings. Alberta iela, Elizabetes iela and Strēlnieku iela have the most spectacular Art Nouveau facades. Hotels here tend to be larger and quieter, close to the Latvian National Museum of Art and the Esplanāde park. It is a good compromise between convenience and calm.
The Quiet Centre (Klusais centrs)
The area around Alberta iela, Rūpniecības iela and Kronvalda park is known as the Quiet Centre, a residential district with embassies, cafés and Art Nouveau architecture. Accommodation is mostly apartments and boutique hotels in elegant buildings.
Near the Central Market and the station
The area between the Central Station and the Central Market is convenient for buses and trains to the airport and Jūrmala, with budget hotels and hostels. Some streets can feel shabby at night, so check reviews carefully.
Maskavas forštate (Moscow Suburb)
South-east of the market, the Latgale suburb (Latgales priekšpilsēta), known historically as the Moscow Suburb, is a historic district with wooden houses, the Latvian Academy of Sciences building (a Stalinist skyscraper with a viewing platform) and the Riga Ghetto and Latvian Holocaust Museum. It has some budget options and is becoming more interesting, but it's not ideal for first-time visitors at night.
Ķīpsala and Pārdaugava
Across the river, the island of Ķīpsala has restored wooden houses, the Žanis Lipke Memorial (honouring a dock worker who saved Jews during the Holocaust) and the International Exhibition Centre. Pārdaugava (left bank) includes the National Library, nicknamed the Castle of Light, and the quiet wooden district of Āgenskalns with its market. Staying here gives views of the Old Town skyline.
Mežaparks
For a green retreat, Mežaparks (Forest Park) in the north is a garden city of early twentieth-century villas among pine trees, with the Riga Zoo, Ķīšezers lake and the open-air stage used for the Song and Dance Festival. Tram 11 connects it to the centre.
Jūrmala
If you prefer the seaside, many visitors stay in the resort town of Jūrmala, with a 33-kilometre beach and spa hotels, and visit Riga by train (about 30 minutes to Majori).
Booking advice
Prices in Riga are reasonable but rise during the Song and Dance Festival (every five years; the last was in 2023), Midsummer (Jāņi, 23 to 24 June) and large ice hockey and basketball events. Most hotels include breakfast. The city charges no significant tourist tax for most stays at the time of writing, but check. Make sure your room has good heating if you are visiting in winter.
Āgenskalns
Across the river in Pārdaugava, Āgenskalns has wooden houses from the nineteenth century and the renovated Āgenskalns Market, which reopened in 2022 as a food and culture hall. It feels local and relaxed, with tram links to the Old Town in about 10 minutes.
Choosing according to season
In summer, a base near the river or in the Old Town lets you enjoy long evenings on terraces. In winter, staying close to the centre reduces time outdoors in cold weather. Check that heating and window insulation are good in older buildings.
What to expect from hotels
Riga's hotels range from historic buildings in the Old Town to modern business towers. Many Old Town buildings have no lifts and steep stairs, so check if you have heavy luggage. Breakfast is usually included and generous, with rye bread, cheeses, smoked fish and pancakes. Rates rise sharply during big events such as the Song and Dance Festival.
Parking
Parking in the Old Town is restricted and expensive, so drivers should choose hotels with parking.
Summary
First-time visitors: Old Riga. Architecture lovers: the Art Nouveau district. Quiet and elegant: the Quiet Centre. Budget: near the Central Market. Views and local feel: Ķīpsala or Āgenskalns. Seaside: Jūrmala.
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